November Newsletter

This month we look at 

  • Selling and buying on auctions. Let me know if I should place more in-depth articles on this subject. If there is anyone of you that has more experience than me I would like for you to write an article on selling on auction sites which I can then feature in my monthly newsletter. 

  • We also look at 7 easy steps on how to identify minerals 

  • And we tell you what is the right way to open a geode. 

  • Lastly we have our regular Silver Hills Mineral Gallery updates page for the month of October 2001.

    Thank you for your valued e-mails and making trading with all of you such an enjoyable experience.

    Be blessed as you read this newsletter.

    Gerdus

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KMF Rocks - The website that you are now on.

Selling rocks and minerals on auction sites.

I will not call myself an expert in this area but I have some experience since I have been selling on auction sites since February 2001.

Let me tell you how I experience the auction market. Auction sites are a great way to get inexpensive items sold. I have never listed a high ticket item on an auction site so I am no authority on that. People look for bargains on auction sites.

 The ABC of selling on auction sites

Get listed

Firstly you need to get listed as a seller. You create a profile where they require you to lodge a valid credit card number. Few people like this but so far I have not heard of any stories of abuse.

Start listing 

Then you start listing your items on the auction site. This is a laborious process until you have learned how the system works. We all have our little tricks here. Some rely on the quality of their photos, but it is actually your copy that sells your item. People want to know exactly what they are buying and how much the item is going to cost them inclusive of the freight. You must be truthful in your description. It does not pay in the long run not to describe the item truthfully. Once you have gained a buyer you want to retain this buyer for the future. Give the dimensions and weight and describe the flaws if any on your item.

Pricing

The price. Items are usually listed at a lower than market price on the auction site. When the item is popular it can pick up several bids. I have just recently thought of listing my items at a price that is not a rounded figure. Instead of $ 3.00 list it as $ 3.30. It looks like the item has already received a bid and might spark further bids.

Shipping.

I have found that people find it more comfortable buying from someone in their own country than buying from a place overseas. They feel that they have a greater advantage if something goes wrong. I have often been at a disadvantage shipping from South Africa. Sometimes shipping a single item cost as much as the item itself.

More tips

Tips on when the item is bid on and the auction has closed. Answer the buyer as soon as possible. Tell the buyer exactly what to do and then ship the item as soon as payment has been received. You can use a payment service like PayPal, people feel comfortable using secure sites like that.

Know your buyer

A nifty feature on some auction sites is the rating that they give auctioneers, it helps you to get an ID on whom you are selling to. Not everybody that bids on your item will take the item at the end of the auction. This can be kind of frustrating

I have included a page of tips from E-Bay for those of you who have not read it yet.

Buying rocks and minerals on eBay

Ready to get the most out of your eBay buying experience? Check out the suggestions we've gathered from our millions of experienced buyers:

1. Know the item you are interested in 

·If a description of an item is unclear, be sure to clarify the description with the seller before you place a bid or opt buy it. Please also note that it is up to the sellers to select their own payment options and by bidding or buying an item at a fixed price item, you are agreeing to these terms. It is the buyer's responsibility to make sure that payment terms are clearly understood up front.

·If you're not sure what an item is worth, do a little research before you decide what you're willing to pay.

2. Check the seller's reputation 

·The number in parentheses next to a member's email address is that person's feedback rating-a tally of the comments other users have made about this seller.

·Click on that number to see actual comments-and find out what this seller is like to do business with.

·You may also be able to get more information at http://www.BBBonline.org, or from state and local consumer agencies.

3. Decided to bid? Use a Proxy 

·First, you specify the maximum amount you want to bid. That amount is kept secret and is your proxy bid.

·All bids at or above $15,000 require verification (credit card or alternative ID) prior to placing a bid. Learn More.

·The system will bid for you as the auction proceeds, bidding only enough to outbid other bidders. If someone outbids you, the system immediately ups your bid.

·This continues until someone exceeds your maximum bid, or the auction ends, or you win the auction!

·Plus your proxy will never exceed what you're willing to pay for the item. 

·Proxy bidding is not available for Dutch Auctions or Store BIN fixed price items. 

4. Make note of listing details 

·Be sure to make a note of listing information. You'll need: 

oThe seller's User ID and email address 

oThe item number 

oThe item description 

·To see the official results, just return to the item description page right after the auction closes. Or you can wait for the email notice from eBay.

5. Phone the Seller 

·Talking one-on-one can make you feel more comfortable about your seller. 

·Many people don't read their email every day. A call may also be the quickest way to reach your seller and close the deal!

·A quick call is a great way to resolve misunderstandings. 

6. Protect Yourself 

·Make sure the item you are interested in can be lawfully purchased in your area. Click here to see our Prohibited, Questionable & Infringing Items page.

The Consumer Product Safety Commission occasionally bans sales of goods that may be dangerous to consumers. Please click here for more information.

·Remember, eBay is only a venue and does not guarantee the ability of a seller to complete the transaction or the quality of the items.

·If you feel at all unsure about a transaction, ask the seller to use escrow for the payment. 

·When bidding or buying the Buy It Now item, negotiate escrow terms with the seller before you place a bid.

·You may also ask the seller other questions before bidding (or buying in the case of Buy It Now or fixed price listings),, such as "Do you accept returns" or "How do you ship the item"?

·Consider paying by credit card. Many cards offer insurance or reimbursement for transactions over $50.00.

7. Be Courteous to Other Users 

·Treat everyone with the courtesy you expect to receive. 

·When you send an email, take the time to write in complete sentences, with a salutation and closing. Those little touches make all the difference!

8. General Bidding Tips 

·Don't bid on multiple identical items: you can't pick which one you pay for. Each bid you place enters you in a binding contract.

·If you are outbid on one item, wait until that auction has ended before placing a bid on an identical item. If the bidder who outbid you retracts his/her bid or becomes unregistered before the auction ends, your bid may be reinstated as the high bidder. If you have also bid on another identical item, you may end up being obligated to purchase both items.

·The only acceptable reasons for retracting your bid are: you entered a wrong bid amount; the item description changed substantially after you bid; or you cannot authenticate the seller's identity. Otherwise, your bid is a binding contract and you should follow through with your purchase.

·If you do need to retract a bid, emailing the seller to explain is the polite thing to do. The link to retract a bid is on the Site Map.

·Important notes on Retractions: 

oRetracted bids are recorded in your ID card on your feedback page. If you abuse the retraction function, you will be warned or suspended by eBay.

oRetractions are not permitted within the last 12 hours of an auction, except for bids placed within the last 12 hours and retracted within 1 hour of the bid being placed. Only your last bid is removed in this case

7 KEYS TO MINERAL IDENTIFICATION

by Joan M. Perreault

The beginning collector is often stymied by the identification of his find unless it is a well-know mineral. So what can he do if no expert is handy? First of all, anyone interested in the hobby makes sure he has easy access to at least one book dealing with minerals There are several excellent ones available in paper-back and hardbound - which should be a "must" for anyone interested in rock hunting.

Color

First thing one notices in the field is the color of the specimen. Many minerals come in a variety of colors so one must be familiar with the fact that impurities may cause a mineral to take on a variety of hues.

Lustre

The LUSTRE of the specimen is noted. Does it look like metal or not? Metallic or non-metallic luster is another distinguishing characteristic. If the specimen has a non-metallic luster one can determine if the shine is vitreous or glassy, pearly, adamantine or brilliant like diamonds, resinous or like tree resin, silky or fibrous, or greasy.

Weight

Now the collector will pick up his specimen. Is it heavy for its size of light? With practice, one can usually know what certain minerals weigh

Cleavage

Look at the exposed areas of the specimen -how does the cleavage look? Does the mineral break in a definite pattern suggesting a smooth surface? Minerals may have as many as six cleavage planes.

Fracture

Perhaps instead of cleavage plane, the mineral fractures. The FRACTURE maybe conchoidal or arc-like, hackly or jagged, earthly - even or uneven.

Hardness

The HARDNESS of the specimen simply identifies many minerals. The Mobs scale of hardness identifies common minerals arranged so that each can scratch the fresh surface of the mineral beneath it or minerals of the same hardness will scratch each other. A fingernail is about 2.5; cent 3; knife blade or glass, 5.5; steel file, 6.5. As a guide then, if a knife will scratch a mineral, it has a hardness below 5.5; a mineral over 5.5 will scratch glass.

Streak

If a mineral is drawn across a piece of unglazed tile or pottery, it will leave a powder. This powder is the STREAK another distinguishing characteristic of a mineral. Some streaks are of a different color than the mineral itself.

In addition to these seven basic properties, others may be used in identification. Does the mineral fizz in vinegar? If it has lines on the crystal face, it is said to have striations. Is the specimen flexible or elastic? Is it sectile, or in other words, can it be cut by a knife without powdering? Can it be hammered flat without powdering (malleable)? Is the mineral magnetic, flourescent; phosphorescent; luminescent; fuseable? If one is familiar with the seven basic steps and then goes on, he can usually have a head start on collecting in strange territory.

Let's take these steps with two "mystery minerals".

The mineral is a dark gray 1) with a metallic luster (2). It is heavy (3) and cleaves in three directions (4) or cubic. It is fairly soft (6) and will leave a mark on paper. The streak (7) is gray That's right - galena!

The mineral is a bluish purple (1) with a non-metallic luster vitreous (2). It is of medium weight (3) and cleaves into octahedrons (4). It is fairly hard (6) and a knife blade. will scratch it, but a cent will not. The streak is white. (7)could it be fluorite? It melts at a rather low temperature so it is fluorite.

Opening and cleaning geodes

The opening of geodes can be a pleasurable and surprising experience if the proper tools are used. The pro uses a set of two hardened steel points fastened to a hand or powered press. Tie thus applies pressure from two sides. This works really well, but the outfit is rather expensive. Another ideal way is to score the geode all the way around rather deeply with your trim saw. You can do this by raising the splashguard and rotating the geode by hand until cut all around. It is then very simple to use a screwdriver to pry these sections apart. The third and most used method is to lay the geode in a soft (earth) depression. Look the geode over for any cracks or weak spots. These should be found and force applied there. When you have decided where you will apply pressure, use a medium weight hammer and center punch. (Never use steel chisel). Put the punch in a spot most likely to keep if from sliding off, and hit it several times; easy at first, then harder. If three or four blows do not open the geode, repeat in other spots until a crack does appear. Then use a screwdriver to pry apart.

SAFETY

Regardless of the method used, always use gloves and safety glasses. Keep your section together with tape or rubber bands when transporting them home. Remember; do not hit geodes with your hammer. You may have on safety glasses, but what about the rock hound three meters away? Chips and burrs from your tools fly like bullets.

CLEANING

After the geodes are opened, extreme care should be taken when cleaning so as not to destroy the many micro crystals they often contain.

These are very tiny and easy to overlook. Smythite,siderite, goethite, millerite and strontianite are a few hard-to-come-by crystals that are most times destroyed by the rockhound when cleaning his specimens with brush and water. If the geode, when opened, has iron oxide stain (brown mud coloring), these crystals in all probability have already been destroyed. On these it is safe to wash with a hose and brush. If the discoloration is still present after using soap, water and brush, soak in a solution of oxalic acid, 1/8-cup oxalic acid crystals per.- 5 liters of water. As much mud as possible should be removed before soaking ii acid. Do this with a piece of wire, ice pick, etc - care must be taken so as not to scratch the crystal. CAUTION: DO NOT ALLOW ACID TO TOUCH YOUR SKIN. USE RUBBER GLOVES. Using a hose and brushing occasionally will help speed the cleaning operation; even then it may take as much as six months to clean all stain from your specimens. When clean, wash ill mild soap and rinse extra well.

CARBONATES

Above method will be very effective when geodes are quartz lined, but oxalic acid will dull or even discolor most of the carbonates. For cleaning these I suggest using one-tablespoon oxalic crystal per 5 liters of water. If a yellow precipitate collects on the material while in acid, take it out, wash well, and start over with a weaker solution.

A lot of work, sure, but the Oh's and Ah's you will hear from the viewers will more than make the effort worthwhile.

From Pik-n-Rock and The Geode

UPDATES for the month of October 2001

We had a busy month with lots of excitement. I did not get to travel but will be out a fair bit this coming month sourcing rocks for all our friends out there. We are getting some exciting rough from Zimbabwe. I have worked on the website to fine tune it so that your surfing experience will be easier. We now indicate the status of every specimen on the first page so you do not need to open every page to see what is available. It took Annalie my wife three days to do it and I received a lot of reprimanding for incomplete pages and general faults that she picked up.

I have added some new articles in the article page. 

I am looking for a shopping basket system that I can use, does anyone have some suggestions? Does the shopping basket system work better than the normal e-mail system?

I have added an auction page on my website but do not always make the time to list items on auction. Here follows a full list of all our updates for the last month.

Your input is always appreciated.

Have a good November 

Gerdus